1956 horn always on

[Tater Salad]

Page 64 Larry's catalog.

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[mikek57]

my horn stays on all the time

 

[doug7740]

Since your horn is on all the time, that tells me that either the horn relay is defective or there a short to ground in the horn relay control circuit.



Looking at the simple wiring diagram of the horn relay control circuit you will notice when the horn ring is depressed, that grounds the horn relay and causes the relay to close. When the relay closes voltage is sent to the horns and they both activate.

If you disconnect the Black/Yellow wire from the horn relay and the horns keep sounding, you have a defective horn relay. If you disconnect the Black/Yellow wire from the horn relay and the horns stop sounding, either the Black/Yellow wire that runs from the horn relay to the horn ring is shorted to ground, or the horn ring is shorted to ground.

To check to see to the horn ring is shorted to ground, remove the horn ring from the steering wheel and inspect the horn ring insulator (3672) for damage.



If it turns out that the Black/Yellow wire that runs from the horn relay to the horn ring is shorted to ground, then the horn wire will have to be replaced.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[TbirdFan76]

If it was that tough to break loose, I'd recommend soaking it in penetrating oil such as PB Blaster and letting it sit for a day or so. If it hasn't been adjusted in years It could be pretty stiff. Be patient. I have to adjust mine all the time as the tonau cover was cut when the wheel was all the way out but I drive with it in.

Seems freeing this collar is a common problem. I notice on my 57 there is a small screw in the chrome collar on the right hand side. Have you ever heard of a screw in the telescoping collar?

Also encountered the horn issue today. It started during a right hand turn and got worse into almost constant blowing. I think it might be a short in a wire coming from the physical horn on the passenger side. Electrical tape had dried and unwrapped and a bare wire may have been touching metal surface. Wrapping the tape as snuggly as possible to cover the wire got me home in silence. However using new electrical tape and going for another drive it returned but not a constant blast and only after turning right. @woodeye did you ever resolve your issue with the horn?

 

[TbirdFan76]

Seems freeing this collar is a common problem. I notice on my 57 there is a small screw in the chrome collar on the right hand side. Have you ever heard of a screw in the telescoping collar?

Also encountered the horn issue today. It started during a right hand turn and got worse into almost constant blowing. I think it might be a short in a wire coming from the physical horn on the passenger side. Electrical tape had dried and unwrapped and a bare wire may have been touching metal surface. Wrapping the tape as snuggly as possible to cover the wire got me home in silence. However using new electrical tape and going for another drive it returned but not a constant blast and only after turning right. @woodeye did you ever resolve your issue with the horn?

 

[Tom Alpers]

The wires going to the horns carry full 12v power when the relay clicks on and then the horns blow. If the relay is off, a short there will do nothing. If the relay was on (and power is being sent to the horns), a short there could prevent the horn from blowing or it might blow intermittently, but the shorted spot would spark, and worse case melt the wires back to the relay. From what you describe it seems more likely your problem is either the contact button inside the steering wheel is getting grounded when it shouldn't or the wire that goes thru the steering column and up to that button is frayed and grounding out. Either will cause the horn relay to energize and blow the horn. Since it's happening when you make a turn that is more indication that it's a problem with the wire that goes up the column or the contact button. Even thought that frayed wire you found may not be the cause of this problem it definitely something to make sure gets a good taping so it can't short out in the future.

 

[TbirdFan76]

The brass button pops out because it is spring loaded. It is designed to make contact with the middle of the horn ring. The system is a little bit complicated because it has to take into account the telescoping steering column. There is no horn switch as such. The switch is on/off and is on when the horn ring is pressed. There is a horn relay but that is obviously working or the horn wouldn't blow. I would replace the horn wire. It isn't too expensive and is the first place there could be a problem.
Lew Bachman
1957 Colonial White

The wires going to the horns carry full 12v power when the relay clicks on and then the horns blow. If the relay is off, a short there will do nothing. If the relay was on (and power is being sent to the horns), a short there could prevent the horn from blowing or it might blow intermittently, but the shorted spot would spark, and worse case melt the wires back to the relay. From what you describe it seems more likely your problem is either the contact button inside the steering wheel is getting grounded when it shouldn't or the wire that goes thru the steering column and up to that button is frayed and grounding out. Either will cause the horn relay to energize and blow the horn. Since it's happening when you make a turn that is more indication that it's a problem with the wire that goes up the column or the contact button. Even thought that frayed wire you found may not be the cause of this problem it definitely something to make sure gets a good taping so it can't short out in the future.

Found the wire from steering column to horn. Unfortunately while trying to separate the yellow wire from steering column from the green wire to the horn the connector broke. I know I got the correct wire because pressing the horn produces no sound. Now what is the proper way to fix the connector? Is there a way remove the broken piece from the socket? What purpose do the connectors serve?

 

[Tom Alpers]

Found the wire from steering column to horn. Unfortunately while trying to separate the yellow wire from steering column from the green wire to the horn the connector broke. I know I got the correct wire because pressing the horn produces no sound. Now what is the proper way to fix the connector? Is there a way remove the broken piece from the socket? What purpose do the connectors serve?

If you aren't worried about having perfect originality you can use a pair of any type of connector if you are talking about the part of the wire that exits the bottom of the steering column. Snip off the old connectors and crimp on the new ones. If the wire is too short you may need to add some wire. As long as a couple inches is coming out of the bottom of the steering column you should be able to make a suitable repair. Then you can test it and see if that fixes it.

 

[TbirdFan76]

Any advice on how to make the small brass shaft button stay in place when trying to reinstall the horn ring? Is it supposed to somehow be inserted in the spring that's inside the sleeve that contains the wire? Attached photo is the tiny brass shaft button within plastic tube.

 

[TbirdFan76]

Any advice on how to make the small brass shaft button stay in place when trying to reinstall the horn ring? Is it supposed to somehow be inserted in the spring that's inside the sleeve that contains the wire? Attached photo is the tiny brass shaft button within plastic tube.

Never mind. Figured out I need to push the wire up from the bottom end of the steering column and then attach the plastic sleeve and brass fitting.

 

[FrankWissman]

In post#23, where does +12V come in, please?

 

[doug7740]

Voltage to the horn relay comes from the yellow wire that is connected to terminal B of the voltage regulator.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[FrankWissman]

Gotcha - shared 12V for pulling the solenoid and powering the horns - thank you!