1956 polishing the aluminum valve cover | Page 2 | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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1956 polishing the aluminum valve cover

  • Thread starter Thread starter ladytb
  • Start date Start date
Does anyone happen to know whether this paint from CASCO is the correct green paint for the aluminum valve covers?

Screenshot_20220731-151955_Edge.jpg

I ask because the red paint on their website has a product description but the green one does not.

Also: what’s the degree of difficulty in re-installing/re-gasketing the valve covers after cleaning and painting? My covers are “fine” as is, but I’d like to get them looking fresher/shinier. But not at the risk of developing a leak, if putting the new gaskets on is particularly tricky in terms of getting it just right to avoid leaking. Don’t want to create a problem that I don’t currently have…
 
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I used the paint. Seems fine. Replaced the gaskets on the covers as well. All was quick, easy, and I have no leaks.
 
Does anyone happen to know whether this paint from CASCO is the correct green paint for the aluminum valve covers?

View attachment 23608

I ask because the red paint on their website has a product description but the green one does not.

Also: what’s the degree of difficulty in re-installing/re-gasketing the valve covers after cleaning and painting? My covers are “fine” as is, but I’d like to get them looking fresher/shinier. But not at the risk of developing a leak, if putting the new gaskets on is particularly tricky in terms of getting it just right to avoid leaking. Don’t want to create a problem that I don’t currently have…
The aluminum valve covers are easy to re-seal. They don't warp or bend like the steel covers.
 
It's the paint I used. Make sure to clean and degrease the covers well.
 
what’s the degree of difficulty in re-installing/re-gasketing the valve covers after cleaning and painting? My covers are “fine” as is, but I’d like to get them looking fresher/shinier. But not at the risk of developing a leak, if putting the new gaskets on is particularly tricky in terms of getting it just right to avoid leaking. Don’t want to create a problem that I don’t currently have…
I attach the gaskets to the valve cover with a very thin coat of RTV, turn it right side up on a flat surface and let it set up overnight. Install the next day. In the future, if you have to remove the gasket for any reason, it usually just peels off. Any sealant on the block side of the gasket is usually not needed.
 
You can use a drill and firm buffing pads, polishing rouge, aluminum polishes of several kinds however, the process will be somewhat slow and tedious.

A pedestal buffer with large buffing wheels and the correct rouge will do a great job but be sure you are using it with a little practice at first. It can grab an edge and if your not maintaining a good hold on the cover, it can pull it out of your hands by catching an edge.

The simplest method? Bring it to a chrome shop but, that’s not really why we do this stuff
 
If your valve covers are not pitted and just want to clean them up and make them shine, you can use a good degreaser, cleaner and then polish with White Diamond metal polish and they will turn out real nice without buying a bunch of stuff you will only use once
 
That sounds pretty neat. Hmm.. would it be possible to put a rheostat on it to slow it down for delicate work? I think the last time cleaned mine it was all manual work ( I was too lazy to pull them and then have to replace all the gaskets that don't leak at all )and a wire brush for the detents. Then touched up the logo with the proper turquois and red inserts.
cboysteve 56 i got a foot pedal from a sewing machine hooked to my buffer it works like a rheostat
 
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