Speedo/odometer not working all dash light on

[evruss]

Three days ago, on my birthday, no less, my 2003 T-bird (which I purchased in 2010 with 60,000 miles; it now has 76,000) exhibited the same sort of malfunction described in this thread, speedometer and odometer not working and other lights lit up. Also, the steering felt "stiff" and not as "power" as before and the transmission shifting began to slip. I took it to my local Automotive Service where I have oil changes done (that's all it's needed) and they admitted to not being able to diagnose it, saying it could be a faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and advised me to tow it (not drive it) to the local Ford Dealership Service Dept., which I did the next day. I called and alerted the dealership and nearly two days passed without hearing anything from them, so I called to see what was up. They told me that it's a faulty "ABS Control Module" and replacing it "might" fix the problem; no guarantee! And the one they found needs to be sent from Memphis, TN. I'm in Boise, ID, so it probably won't be here until 5 days from now. Cost, $775. + $220. labor. I have yet to authorize the repair before doing some more online research. What does one do when they have an non-drive-able car at a dealership that has a problem that appears to be a crap-shoot to fix?

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[bjjcgj]

Three days ago, on my birthday, no less, my 2003 T-bird (which I purchased in 2010 with 60,000 miles; it now has 76,000) exhibited the same sort of malfunction described in this thread, speedometer and odometer not working and other lights lit up. Also, the steering felt "stiff" and not as "power" as before and the transmission shifting began to slip. I took it to my local Automotive Service where I have oil changes done (that's all it's needed) and they admitted to not being able to diagnose it, saying it could be a faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and advised me to tow it (not drive it) to the local Ford Dealership Service Dept., which I did the next day. I called and alerted the dealership and nearly two days passed without hearing anything from them, so I called to see what was up. They told me that it's a faulty "ABS Control Module" and replacing it "might" fix the problem; no guarantee! And the one they found needs to be sent from Memphis, TN. I'm in Boise, ID, so it probably won't be here until 5 days from now. Cost, $775. + $220. labor. I have yet to authorize the repair before doing some more online research. What does one do when they have an non-drive-able car at a dealership that has a problem that appears to be a crap-shoot to fix?

I've been driving mine with that issue, the only attempts I've made to fix the issue is cleaning my rear ABS sensors. The problem before cleaning was intermittent and now it's constant. That leads me to believe my problem is with my rear abs sensors. My next step will be to replace them. Others have had the same issue and this route is the least expensive if it fixes the issue. I would rather try the low or no cost options first. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined the rear abs sensors are an easy job. Some have said it cured their problem.

 

[bjjcgj]

I replaced the rear abs sensors today and no change, luckily if you get the parts online they are not very expensive. Replacing all the abs sensors and the speed sensor will set me back about $140 and if that doesn't do the trick I'll try all the coil packs. AM autoparts sells a set of 8 coil packs with a 10 year warranty for 50.70 shipped. I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[bjjcgj]

Today I took off the intake tube because I read in another forum that the throttle body can be temperamental and cause it to throw codes. It looked like years of carbon build up. After reassembly and diconnecting the battery the dash lights are still on. I'Ve always been a do it yourselfer and my next attempt will be my trans speedo sensor. If that doesn't work I'll do the front wheel abs sensors, the abs module, then coils. The way I see it it's much less for me to track down the issue that the dealer can't find anyway.

 

[bjjcgj]

I purchased a used ABS module on eBay for $85 now the car runs and drives normal but the ABS and traction lights stayed on and the brake light went off. The wrench and engine light also went away. The ABS and traction control are not functioning. Does anyone know if the dealer needs to reset something when the ABS module is replaced? The car runs and drives normal again. No more harsh early shifting and no more heavy steering the car is fun again 🙂

 

[evruss]

I also purchased a used ABS module from a junk yard for $79.50, and upon installation, my ABS and traction lights remain on. I took the car to a local Ford Dealer to see if this ABS module could be reprogrammed. I was told that it couldn't because they were unable to "clear it" first, which needs to occur in order to reprogram it and that what I need is either a new, or re-manufactured, or a refurbished ABS module. So now I'm trying to find where I can have this used one, or the original one that was taken out, refurbished.

 

[bjjcgj]

So the

I also purchased a used ABS module from a junk yard for $79.50, and upon installation, my ABS and traction lights remain on. I took the car to a local Ford Dealer to see if this ABS module could be reprogrammed. I was told that it couldn't because they were unable to "clear it" first, which needs to occur in order to reprogram it and that what I need is either a new, or re-manufactured, or a refurbished ABS module. So now I'm trying to find where I can have this used one, or the original one that was taken out, refurbished.

So the replacement module is now bad...I may just remove the bulbs from the instrument cluster. I enjoy cars more without traction control 🙂